Tuesday, October 1, 2024

Asheville Misadventures

Well, our family vacation did not go as expected — that would be an understatement. 

artwork by Hazel, age 5

Instead of hiking, foraging for mushrooms, dining at eclectic restaurants and enjoying the beautiful mountains of Western North Carolina, we spent the week dealing with the aftermath of Hurricane Helene that wreaked calamity on the town of Asheville and surrounding region. 

By comparison with the residents of Asheville, we had it easy. Now back safely at Farm Dover, we can't stop thinking of the emotional and physical turmoil they have undergone and the long rebuilding process they are embarking on. 

Here’s how it rolled out:

Ed, Jack and I arrived in Asheville, NC last Wednesday afternoon and unloaded our car at our beautiful airbnb, near downtown. 

Jack then headed to the airport to pick up Mary and family, arriving from Brooklyn. That evening, it was pouring rain, so we ventured into town for dinner by car (making two trips as the six of us could not all fit in our Subaru.) Late that night, Maggie, Nate, Hazel and Norbert arrived from New Albany. We were thrilled to all be together: seven adults, two children and one very cute baby girl. Let the vacation begin!

The next day the rain continued. Not to be daunted by a few raindrops, we headed to nearby Hendersonville for a late breakfast and time at the children’s museum. We noticed that many of the shops had closed early because bad weather was predicted. 

Once back in Asheville, Maggie and Nate went to the grocery for fixings for an at-home dinner. We stayed in for the night. 

In the very early morning hours of Friday, remnants of Hurricane Helene blew through town.  It rained hard. The wind blew. We could hear trees cracking and falling. We woke up to no electricity and only spotty cell service. By noon, our airbnb hosts were advising us to fill a tub with water as the city's water main (under the French Broad River) had broken, the river was flooding, and all city water would soon be turned off. We could no longer get any cell phone/internet service. It was eerily quiet except for the sound of chainsaws.

Brian and I headed out to fill up the car with gas. We only found stations that were unable to dispense gas without a generator or, long, long lines at the pumps of the only two stations that were open. We struck out. And still it rained. 

On Saturday, without any intel on road conditions, we got on the road toward home, only to find all the gas stations closed and I-40 blocked by mudslides and washouts. While the rest of the gang drove back to our Airbnb, Ed, Jack and I waited at a Pilot station for 6 hours on the (false) belief that generators were on their way so the pumps could be turned on. We used the last of our gas to drive back to Asheville. 

In the meantime, Brian and Nate had hiked to the a Harris-Tetter grocery, stood in line for two hours, and bought all the non-perishable provisions they could carry in bags and backpacks. We settled in with no electricity, no running water, no internet, no gas and no open highways. We did have a deck of “Go Fish.”

As we walked around the neighborhood, we were aghast at the number of fallen trees and damage to homes. Cars smashed beneath mighty oaks. We found a guy in a van with a Starlink connection and a willingness to let anyone use his cell service. Nate and Brian texted their parents to let them know they were alive and well. And Jack was able to connect with Kasia, who was in New York with her family from Poland. 

Our airbnb hosts, Sarah and Doniel, were terrific. They brought over a gallon of gas and a fifth of Rye Whiskey — and checked on us often. We got to know the neighbors, the firemen at the local station, and Brian connected with a friend’s dad, who had a generator enabling him to recharge our phones, computers and external batteries for whenever we might get cell service. 

Every hour, at the top of the hour, some of us would go sit in the van and tune into the local NPR radio station for updates. In the meantime, we played some rousing games of Sardines, read books to the kids, colored and made cootie-catchers. Hazel worked on documenting the trip for a school assignment and eight-month-old Roscoe Jane entertained us all with her smiles and hand-clapping. 

Norbert and Hazel picked up all the fallen branches and sticks that had filled the front yard and they swept the porch. Maggie, Mary and I whipped up fairly imaginative meals from the ingredients we had on hand and which we served on paper plates. Nate and Brian captured rain water from the flooded basement to use to flush the toliets and figured out how to drain the hot water heaters for water to boil for drinking. We had nightly music with Nate on guitar and Jack on ukelele. Despite our predicament, we managed to have some lovely family time. 

On Sunday, it became apparent that it would be days before we had any water, and gas still wasn’t available. On the plus side: we did get cell service. And with it, we were able to plan an exit toward home. 

Our main barrier was the lack of gas in the Subaru. Nate and Brian worked on a solution most of Sunday afternoon. Syphoning gas from the Dodge van to the Subaru proved unsuccessful (as newer cars evidently have a screen that prevents it). 

After some head scratching and trial and error, they figured out how to disconnect the fuel line at the engine of the van, jury rig it so that the fuel pump would run. With each turn of the key, they were able to get 5 ounces of gas. They worked at it until they captured 4 gallons which they transferred into the Subaru. Incredible brilliance and problem solving on display! Both cars could now be driven far enough to (hopefully) find a station where we could fill up. 

And so it was that on Monday morning we pulled out of our Asheville drive, headed south toward Spartanburg, then east to Charlotte (on the only open highway) and then north to Beckley, WV and on toward Farm Dover. Twelve hours later, we were home. Tired and in need of a shower, but safe.

As we drove out of town, we were devastated by the water and wreckage. The town and outskirts along the river looked post-apocalyptic. Lives, businesses, and homes were lost. Trees were down everywhere. Water was everywhere it was not supposed to be. Western North Carolina is a beautiful place and will eventually heal from this devastation, but it will be a long, long time before life gets back to anything approaching normal. 

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Here is a list of lessons we learned; hope it helps you think about how you might prepare for a local disaster.

Now

  • Purchase a hand-crank radio/phone charger.
  • Put a flashlight and hand sanitizer in your car and in a designated place in your home.
  • Keep extra batteries, a lighter or matches, and a stock of paper plates, cutlery and cups on hand.
  • Purchase extra water in gallon containers; rotate to keep fresh.
  • Purchase powdered or shelf-stable milk and non-perishable food items (peanut butter, mac and cheese, cans of tuna, pasta, etc.). Rotate on a regular basis.
  • Have a first-aid kit, fully stocked. 
  • Keep prescriptions filled; purchase an extra pair of glasses or contact lenses.
  • If appropriate, keep an emergency supply of diapers, formula, hygiene and sanitary products.
  • Put all your important documents in one place. Make copies of your credit and identification cards. 
  • Consider keeping some emergency cash on hand. 
  • In cold weather, have blankets, hats, gloves, warm socks, etc. stored in one place. 
  • Don't toss your old technologies: Norbert's Paw Patrol walkie talkies, our old Garmin GPS, and car radio were each helpful to have. (Hazel boasted that her Etch-A-Sketch was the only working computer in the house!)
  • Have a plan and communicate it to your loved ones.

When bad weather is predicted

  • Fill vehicles with gas.
  • Fully charge electronic devices
  • Check in with your loved ones to remind them of your plan.

When bad weather/natural disaster happens

  • Fill a bathtub with water (for flushing toilets)
  • Shut off your water heater. 
  • Drain hot water tank for drinkable water (boil before drinking).

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One last thought: if I had to be stranded with a group of people, there is no other group I’d rather be with. I heard no complaining; experienced only kindness; watched everyone step up and offer their expertise. Despite it all, we ready did have a lovely time together. These are my people — and I love them dearly. 

Monday, September 2, 2024

"Come from Away" to Newfoundland

Back in June, Ed and I were talking about whether we might squeeze in a trip in August, mostly to escape the heat of Kentucky’s summers. We pretty quickly settled on Newfoundland, an island off the mainland of Canada and the only Canadian province that we had not yet visited. 


I knew only three things about this place. One: the novel, The Shipping News, by Annie Proulx is set in a fictional town located in Newfoundland. The harsh and rugged setting stuck with me even more than the emotional storyline. 

Two: We recently watched “Come from Away,” the story of Newfoundlanders’ generous response to the 7000 air passengers and crew stranded in Gander after 911. (Come from Away is the term Newfoundlanders use to refer to anyone not from their island.)

Three: It is faraway and hard to get to — seemingly a requirement for many of our travel adventures. 

So, in the course of one afternoon, we mapped out an 11-day itinerary and booked airline tickets, one hotel and three Airbnb cottages. And then mostly forgot about it until it was time to pack and go. 

We flew into St. John’s, the capital and largest city, and then drove the width of the province, staying for a couple of nights in the Bonavista Peninsula, Fogo Island and Rocky Harbour. On our way back to the airport we spent the night in Twillingate. More on each destination below. 

In my mind, it is the spectacular landscape that makes the place: rugged coastlines, dramatic cliffs, with steep mountains that rise directly from the water. There is water, water everywhere: bays, harbours and inlets, fjords, streams and ponds. The vistas are breathtaking, especially when dotted with colorful saltbox houses and commercial premises. The geography is a mix of barren rock, bogs and boreal forests. 


The remoteness and harsh climate of the isle influence the flora and fauna as well as the people who live there. 


Black Spruce, Balsam Fir and White Birch dominate the boreal forests. Berries and wildflowers abound. It was our good fortune that wild Partridge berries were in season; we experienced them in nearly every dessert form: ice cream, pudding, muffins, cake, bread pudding, pie, even tiramisu. I was particularly taken with the wildflowers that lined every road and the edges of peat bogs. Most I could not identify, but found overlap with the wildflowers of Farm Dover in the Red Clover, Wild Strawberry, Yarrow and Goldenrod. 

Moose were introduced in the early 20th century, and without natural predators, have reproduced prolifically. One of our Airbnb hosts noted that most Newfoundlanders participate in a yearly moose hunt, stocking their freezers with hundreds of pounds of meat. Just as I was complaining to Ed that we had not seen even one of the 120,000 moose who call this place home, one crossed the road just in front of our car. 


But it is the people that I will most remember from this trip. Most Newfoundlanders are descendants from the British Isles who arrived in the 18th and 19th centuries with hopes of earning a livelihood, especially from the cod in the surrounding sea waters. They speak English with a thick accent, and freely call us me love, me darlin' or me ducky

We found everyone (without exception) to be kind, generous and forthcoming about their lives in Newfoundland. From our warm welcomes from our Airbnb hosts, to the “Kitchen Parties” where traditional music was played, from every clerk or waitstaff, to the people we encountered on the street or hiking trail, the sense of community was palpable.


Let’s talk about food. We had five fabulous dinners (see below). We had a dozen pub lunches and dinners -- all served with big piles of french fries. And we had a handful of meals from the only source within miles: dingy convenience stores — think Ritz crackers and cheese, potato chips and candy bars. 

Of course, we partook of the island specialties of moose burgers, cod and brewis (salted dried cod mixed with soaked hard bread),  cod cakes and cod chowder, all served with toutons (fried bread) spread with strong molasses. 

Notable was the absence of chain hotels and restaurants, billboards, and outfitter shops. Also, I didn’t see a whale, puffin or iceberg or — for that matter — a speck of litter. But it was the absence of noise that struck us most. We could hear the waves softly lapping in the cove or the birch leaves rustling in the wind, but otherwise it was so peacefully quiet. 



I may have arrived with limited knowledge of Newfoundland, but left with a true appreciation for this island and an affection for the people who live here. Would I recommend this trip to others? Perhaps, but only to those who are willing to venture far from home, make the effort to get to know the locals, are good with consuming loads of french fries, and who relish dramatic seascapes and abundant silence. For us, it was one of our best trips yet. So glad we went.



Trip highlights

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St. John's

Capital and largest city
Outstanding meal: The Merchant Tavern
Best museum: The Rooms (Natural History and Art)
Best Brewery: Quidi Vidi Brewery
hotel: Murray Premises Hotel, two nights




Bonavista peninsula

Included visits to Trinity, Port Rexton, Bonavista plus Terra Nova National Park
Outstanding meal: The Fishers' Loft (beautiful kitchen garden)
Best Brewery: Port Rexton Brewery
Stayed at this Airbnb in Princeton, two nights




Fogo Island

Took the ferry over and back.
Architectural highlight: Fogo Island Inn
Cultural highlight: Kitchen Party, a traditional social gathering where people come together to enjoy music, dancing and storytelling
Best hike: Joe Batt's Walking Trail (which ends at life-sized bronze statue of the now extinct Great Auk)
Best dinner: Bangbelly Bistro
Stayed at this Airbnb in Joe Batt’s Arm, two nights




Rocky Harbour (within the Gros Morne National Park)

Outstanding meal: The Black Spruce
Outstanding hike: Coastal Trail in Gros Morne
Best boat ride: Western Brook Pond (fjord)
Outstanding sunset: from the front porch of our cottage
Stayed at this Airbnb in Rocky Harbour, 3 nights




Twillingate

Outstanding meal: Georgie’s, Anchor Inn Pub afterwards for traditional NFLD music
Stayed at The Anchor Inn, one night 




Saturday, July 13, 2024

Traveling with the Twins

Earlier this summer, Ed and I traveled to Mexico City with our nieces: Katie and Molly. When we returned, I posted some photos of our trip to Instagram, but wanted to follow up with a blog post detailing our trip -- mostly as a reminder to myself of the great fun that we had. 


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From my Instagram post...

Ed and I love to travel and especially enjoy traveling with our grown children. The problem is: they all live busy lives and just aren’t as fancy-free as they once were. So we were delighted when Sister Julie’s youngest girls wished aloud to travel “somewhere with Uncle Ed and Aunt Deb this summer”. Without missing a beat, we responded: “Let’s go to Mexico City.”

Turns out, it was OUR good fortune to travel with Molly and Katie. They spoke Spanish; were expert navigators; and discovered terrific restaurants and museums. They were fun, curious, insightful and, above all, exceedingly kind to each other and to Ed and me. 

Thank you, Katie. Thank you, Molly. We will always treasure our time in CDMX with you two. xxx

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Trip highlights

Hotel
Casa Goliana As with our previous trips to Mexico City, we stayed at this 8-room hotel in the heart of the Roma Norte neighborhood. You can't beat the great location, helpful staff, lovely breakfast, sunny courtyard and beautiful rooms. 

Molly and Katie in the sun-filled hotel courtyard.

Tour
On our first full day, we booked a 5-hour walking food tour through the Historic Center via Sabores. We made stops at six restaurants, shops, markets and street vendors. It was a great way to get an overview of the city center and also an introduction to some of the best foods Mexico City has to offer. I was especially proud of both girls' willingness to taste crunchy grasshoppers. 



Museums
Museo Frida Kahlo (Casa Azul) Katie and Molly toured Frida Kahlo's Blue House while Ed and I walked around the Coyoacán neighborhood. (We had visited previously.) I think the girls loved seeing the personal objects, paintings by both Frida and her husband, Diego Rivera, photos, and furnishings that were part of the ambience where Frida was inspired to create.   


Museo Nacional de Antropologia Ed and I had been there before, but we couldn't wait to go back. The museum contains the world's largest collection of ancient Mexican art. It is the largest and most visited museum in Mexico.


Museo Soumaya. A new museum for us -- and it may be our favorite. Beautiful building. Amazing collection of art and sculpture. 


Restaurants

One of the reasons we love to visit Mexico City is its abundance of excellent places to eat. One this trip we discovered some new ones.

When we arrived at our hotel in the early afternoon, the reception staff sent us out the door and around the corner to a trendy taqueria for just a snack to hold us over until dinner. This counter-service place, well-known by locals and tourists, offers up delicious pork and beef tacos, which we paired with tall metal glasses of cold hibiscus lemonade. Of course, we had to try one of their deserts, plantain ice cream, served to us with four spoons. 

For dinner on our first night, we again when out the door of our hotel and around the corner and up some stairs to a very fun cantina. Molly and Katie ordered for the table: guacamole, tacos, salad and the best ceviche that I’ve ever had, plus multiple desserts. At the end of the trip, we all agreed this was our favorite meal.



After the girls toured Frida Khalo’s house, we met them in the colonial neighborhood for a late alfresco lunch. The food, service, and atmosphere were delightful and we even worked up our nerve to try an appetizer prepared with huitlacoche (i.e., corn smut).

Needing only a light supper, we stopped in this open-air place — just downstairs from Páramo (see above) and were quickly overwhelmed by the immense selection of tacos. We requested our waiter order for us and were delighted with the plateful of tacos he brought to our table, along with large glasses of beer. 

I’m sure Katie and Molly got tired of me singing the praises of this landmark place for churros and hot chocolate. But they liked it too; if fact, we went back in the afternoon for a snack of mini churros and a milk shake for Ed. 


After a morning of museuming, we stopped in at Lardo, an Italian-Mediterranean-inspired café in the Condesa neighborhood, for a pizza and some fried squash blossoms, accompanied a bottle of rosé. 

For our final evening, we made reservations at this modern Michelin-recognized restaurant. We were well-entertained by the attentive service, the extra courses and the beautifully plated entrées. All a bit too fussy for my tastes, but nevertheless, a great way to end our trip.