Wednesday, March 20, 2024

Mérida: South of the Border, Down Mexico Way

Sometimes waiting for spring to arrive at Farm Dover just seems too hard. Looking out the kitchen window, all I see are shades of brown against a gray sky.  I long for some color and some sunshine. And that's when Ed says: "Let's go to Mérida."

That's exactly what we did. Last week, we closed the farm gate and headed to the Yucatán Peninsula. A week of sunny days, spicy foods, and amazing sights was just what we needed. 

While most people would head straight for the beaches of Tulum or Cancún, we chose to spend the week in Mérida, the capital city of the Mexican state of Yucatán, known for its rich Mayan culture and colonial heritage. 

Most mornings we got up early, before the day heated up, and set out to explore the neighborhood and find a cup of coffee. Our hotel, Casa Azul, served a full breakfast in the courtyard until noon, so we would return for a late morning desayuno, followed by an hour or two reading under the umbrella at the pool, just outside our bedroom door. (The hotel only had eight rooms; for the entire week, we had the pool to ourselves.)

We spent much of the week strolling the beautiful main boulevard called Paseo de Montejo, visiting museums, winding our way thru the local markets, people watching in the Plaza Grande and seeking out places to experience the Yucatecan cuisine. 

We ventured out of the city only twice: Once on a tour to visit Chichen Itzá, one of the New 7 Wonders of the World, and once on our own to walk the beach and have dinner in Progreso, a port city about 30 minutes from Mérida. 


Our day at Chichen Itzá began with a very early morning pickup so that we could arrive at this Mayan ruin before the crowd swelled and the sun grew hot. Our English-speaking guide made a huge difference in our understanding of this pre-Columbian city and of the remarkable peoples who lived there. 


Come mid-morning, we left the bulging crowds and moved on to one of the Yucatán Peninsula's 10,000 centotes, water-filled sinkholes that are naturally formed by the collapse of limestone. We descended by stone steps some 150 feet to the water. With a couple of big splashes we found ourselves floating around a most-beautiful natural pool with lush vines hanging from the trees at the top and small springs cascading down on our heads. 

A handful of other people were there and we watched in amazement as some of them  jumped from high platforms or dropped from ropes into the cool, clear water. 

Our last stop of the day was at Izamal, an important archaeological site of the Pre-Columbian Maya civilization. It is known as the Yellow City (most of its buildings are painted yellow) and also as The City of Hills (that are actually the remains of ancient temple pyramids). 

A 16th-century Spanish colonial city was founded atop the existing Maya one. Rather than tear down the Mayan city, the Spanish placed a small Christian temple atop the great pyramid and built a large Franciscan Monastery atop the acropolis. 

It was a good week. Plenty of time to see the sights; but also plenty of time to just lounge at the pool or linger at the table. We felt safe the entire time we were there. Everyone we met was friendly and helpful. Ed got to practice his Spanish. 

We often sat a spell in one of the many distinctive S-shaped sillas confidentes (confidant chairs)


And sure enough, when we got back to Farm Dover, the maple trees were budding; the plum trees were in full bloom and the daffodils were waving their cheerful heads. Yes, spring was on its way. 

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Highlights





Coffee shops that we liked:

Voltacafé

Flores Cafe

Baretto Espresso Bar

Café Créme


Restaurants:

La Pigua

NOL,  Restaurante

Apoala


Tours:



Random photos

Hot!🌞






Saturday, March 9, 2024

Making Room to Grow

Fourteen years ago, when we were beginning to plan our move to the country, I had a very short -- but specific -- list of things I wanted for our new home: a willow tree, a big vegetable garden, an outdoor shower, a table to seat 12, and a guest cottage, which was a the very top on my list. I had hoped that it would be a place of connection and comfort for anyone venturing out to visit us in the country... a place for quiet reflection and peaceful rest. 

It has been that, and more. Over the years, friends, family, and visiting artists, have bunkered down in the cottage, which feels a bit like summer-camp living.  It primarily serves as Jack and Kasia's landing spot when they visit from Berlin. While they were here in November, they suggested that it was time that we finished the loft in the cottage. (The loft floor was put in during the original construction in 2010, but we never got around to adding a way to get up there -- or a railing to keep one from falling over the ledge.)

So a month ago, I called Jeremy Esposito, home-builder extraordinaire and the builder of our house, and asked him to come look at the space and give me an idea of how to best finish it. I was worried that he would not be interested in taking on this project as it was a very small project, for a very small space, with a very small budget. But without hesitating he and his project manager, Jeff Austerman, showed up, full of good ideas. 

The plan was to cut a 30" hole in the ceiling of the closet and place a ladder up to the loft. They reconfigured the closet to feature some cubbies, a deep shelf for extra bedding, and a short rod for hanging clothes. The railing was fashioned from cattle wire (from Tractor Supply) encased in a simple wood frame. 


The finished space is nest-like and cozy. There is only room for a double mattress and a small stool, that serves as a night stand. Hazel and Norbert have already conquered the steep ladder and are trying to talk me into putting their collection of 1990-era Beanie Babies up there. They have been dreaming up all kinds of cousin sleepovers for the space.

This past Thanksgiving, when all our children, their partners, grandchildren and grand-dogs, came to visit, we were maxed out on available beds -- and that was before Roscoe was born! Hopefully this space will allow us all to comfortably rendezvous at Farm Dover, even as our family continues to grow. 

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Here are some views from the new loft space...







And some photos of the main floor...



It is my hope that this new space is used often and enjoyed by many. xxx