Backroads, Backtracking and BBQ

A couple of times a year Ed suggests we take a roadtrip; usually he has a proposed itinerary already mapped out. That was the case last week when he proposed a trip to Henderson and Paducah, KY with a loop through southern Illinois and a stop (of course) in his hometown of Owensboro. 

View from the top of Devil's Standtable, Giant City State Park

We left last Friday and returned just before dark on Tuesday night. We covered a lot of territory in five days, but never felt rushed as we made our way along the backroads, (often backtracking due to flooded roads!).


Crossing the Ohio into Illinois

Here’s a quick rundown of our adventures: First stop: Bard Distillery, located in the old high school in Graham, Muhlenberg County, KY. 

Bard Distillery, located in the historic coal-mining town of Graham, KY

Lunch at Homer’s BBQ in downtown Henderson, then on to Robards for a delightful stay/dinner at Farmer and the Frenchman Winery. 

We stayed in one of the three cabins, just next to the vineyard.

Next up: a stop at Newsom’s Market in Princeton, KY to sample and purchase their award-winning ham.

We loaded up with country ham, prosciutto ham and ham hocks. 

Then it was on to Paducah with dinner at Freight House, under the proprietorship of Sara Bradley, this year’s James Beard Foundation nominee for Best Chef. 

Sunday morning we attended service at First Presbyterian Church before crossing a swollen Ohio River to make our way to our two-night cabin stay at Giant City State Park in the Shawnee National Forest in southern Illinois. 

Warmly welcomed into the Palm Sunday service at First Presbyterian

We hiked, enjoyed meals at the park’s beautiful lodge and had plenty of time for reading and birdwatching. 

The Lodge at Giant City was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s. 

Our cabin was just down the ramp from a sci-fi looking water tower.

On our way home on Tuesday morning, we stopped at the Garden of Gods for a hike among the incredible sandstone rock formations. 

Stunning panoramic views from The Observation Trail

Then we spent two hours trying to find a route back into Kentucky. Every route we tried ended at a flooded closed road. Eventually, we backtracked to the town of Harrisburg where a local resident gave us driving instructions for crossing the Ohio at Shawneetown. 

Water. Water. Everywhere.

We stopped briefly in Owensboro to stock up on Old Hickory BBQ and Reid’s Orchard’s apple cider. And, of course, we couldn’t pass New Albany without stopping in for hugs with Hazel and Norbert and dropping off some mutton and mac and cheese.


Then home, to breathe in the sweet scent of blooming viburnum. 

It was a good trip, and it was good to be home.